"Fields of Baeza, I will dream of you when I can no longer see you."
Antonio Machado
 
The small towns of Andalusia, nestled among the mountains of southern Spain are little gems not to be overlooked - each with a pace and a beauty of its own. Thankfully bypassed by the busloads of mass-market tourists, these magical places are great places to unwind for a day or two and get to know the real Spain a little bit.
 

Little known outside of Europe, Ubeda - perched on a hill overlooking the Guadalquivir Valley - is a fascinating amalgam of architecture from the Middle ages and the Renaissance. Ubeda’s main square owns the distinction of being one of Europe’s most perfect and complete Renaissance squares.

The 16th century palace of Dean Ortega, right on the main square, has been converted into a lovely parador.

Nearby Baeza is a charming little hilltown surrounded by olive groves. It makes for a pleasant stop between Ubeda and Granada.

Arcos de la Frontiera, south of Sevilla, is a charming little town with a historic parador and is a nice stop on the road from Sevilla to Ronda.

 

For sheer drama, few cities in Europe can rival Ronda. Built along the edges of a dizzying gorge, it contains a number of impressive historical monuments. Yet the greatest joy is just walking around this city and enjoying it on your own.

In all of Andalusia, in fact, the greatest joys are found in exploring the countryside on your own. Take the small roads and you will stumble across charming hilltowns with winding cobblestone roads, whitewashed walls and red-tiled roofs. Discover the joys of Spain.

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