Essaouira is a charming, laid-back artists’ colony with cobblestoned streets, whitewashed walls and massive stone ramparts along the Atlantic ocean.
A former Portuguese trading colony built in the 18th century (laid out by a French architect held captive), this port town (formerly known as Mogador) once held large populations of British and Jews. Although no longer a trading center, it is still a fishermen’s town. Its pretty harbor is filled with tiny, colorful boats which go out early every morning for the day’s catch.
Its resident guests, seduced by its charms, included such diverse figures as Orson Welles, who made it the setting for his 1952 Othello (in which Welles himself played the Moor), and Jimmy Hendrix, who spent much time here in the 1960’s.
Essaouira’s romantic ambiance, plentiful shops and intriguing art galleries make this little town a particularly pleasant place to unwind and relax for a few days.
It enjoys a growing reputation for its unique art - which is only now becoming available in limited venues in the U.S. and Europe. Essaouira is even more famous for its burled thuya wood - delicately formed and inlaid in tiny shops built into the thick walls of the Portuguese ramparts. The scent from the oils used to polish this richly-colored wood permeates the air.
Two of the most memorable places to stay in Morocco are found in Essaouira. Both are converted from 19th century Andalusian houses and have great atmosphere. The first, Villa Maroc, was the subject of a nine-page feature in Architectural Digest. The second is the Riad al Medina, just renovated in 1996.
Although only two and a half hours from Marrakech, Essaouira has thankfully not yet been discovered by the large groups of mass-market package tours that have had such a negative impact on nearby Marrakech. Its charm awaits those who have the time and inclination to see a little of the real Morocco.
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